Featured Restaurant: The Brotherhood of Thieves
by Suzanne Daub
We can think of no better place on Nantucket to gather with friends and family for lunch or dinner, a cold brew or a classy cocktail than The Brotherhood of Thieves.
Enter through the main entrance on Broad Street and step back in time to an 1840s Whaling Bar & Tavern, with brick walls, lanterns, fireplace, and beamed ceilings that harken back to when Nantucket Town was less refined. Here’s where we come to enjoy a Cisco Brewers Grey Lady draft and one of the Brotherhood’s juicy Burgers with curly fries (the BBQ Burger is hard to beat). This is what most of us “old-timers” remember as the Brotherhood: but we also love the other concepts introduced when new owners revived this island landmark.
Above the Tavern is the Cisco Surfers’ Kitchen & Bar, bright and summery with a long bar, high-tops, and dining tables. There’s room for larger groups in this dining room, and it tends to have a bit more revelry on weekends when there’s live music. There’s also a private dining room on the second floor with large table ideal for 10 or 12 and a refined decor as you’d imagine in a whaling captain’s home. The Notch Whiskey Bar is tucked into the front of the second floor, serving a stellar selection of spirits in the ambiance of an upscale speakeasy. It’s the perfect place to have your first sip of Notch, the world’s top-rated small batch single malt, distilled right here on Nantucket.
Along the side of The Brotherhood is their outdoor patio. This has a beer garden vibe and a “secret bar.” This is a perfect setting on a warm day or evening to sip an ACKGroni with Triple 8 Gale Force Gin and savor a Poke Bowl with chunks of fresh tuna on rice surrounded by seaweed salad, avocado, carrot, mango, cucumber, in a delectable pineapple ginger dressing.
All Brotherhood bars have an international selection of beers, starring Cisco favorites on draft, along with a very respectable list of wines, and more than a dozen specialty cocktails, several mixed with Triple 8 spirits. Their trio of “Drinking…Not Drinking” mocktails are tasty and flavorful libations — we like the tangy-sweet Cosmo Me and the refreshing Pina Con Nada.
We dined at the Brotherhood of Thieves last week in the upstairs Cisco dining area, just as they were about to change to a summer menu. Head Chef Roland Bracy made a special effort to let us sample several of his new dishes, as well as enjoy the favorites that draw locals back to the Brotherhood time and time again.
The Brotherhood is our top island pick for Sushi. Surprised? Don’t be! They have an entire menu devoted to nigiri, maki, sashimi, and nearly two dozen different raw and cooked specialty rolls. They even serve three variations of Toro, a prized delicacy on any sushi menu, and one of Chef Bracy’s favorites. Made from the fatty belly of bluefin tuna, its unique taste and texture is delicate and tender, almost buttery.
We started our recent dinner with a Cisco Beach roll. Like every dish served here, the portion is generous so there was plenty to share. An uramaki (“inside-out” roll), the center of sparkling fresh tuna is rolled with matchsticks of crisp cucumber and scallion. Draped overtop is seared yellowtail, drizzled with spicy mayo and sweet soy. Garnishes of tobiko and tiny wedges of lime add delicious finishes of saltiness and tang. The Cisco Beach is so full of flavor that we didn’t touch the pickled ginger or soy sauce accompaniments.
For a heartier starter, we like the Cheesesteak Egg Rolls. The delightfully crunchy wrapper is chock full of sauteed shaved steak and caramelized onions with a mix of American and provolone cheeses melting lusciously into the meat. It’s served with Chinese mustard— the Philly expat at our table had a problem with that, but we ignored her because it’s just so good! You’ll want to dive right in, but give this a moment to cool: they’re cooked to order and may be piping hot.
From the new menu preview, Chef Bracy brought us his Heirloom Tomatoes with Burrata. Sure to be a hit, this is a taste of summer sunshine, with a beautifully ripe mix of sliced tomatoes: golden Brandywine, Black Krim, and Cherokee Purple (Chef tells us the selection will change and include island-grown as the Nantucket harvest becomes available). Nestled on top is a ball of fresh burrata cheese. When split open it spills its creamy middle over baby greens tossed with glistening balsamic pearls that cut the richness with tangy pops. A thick slice of grilled focaccia is served alongside.
The Brotherhood is famous for their burgers, and, after trying it, we include their Veggie Burger in the list of favorites! Made in-house with quinoa, black beans, mushrooms, and sweet potato, the carnivores at our table were very satisfied with this vegetarian option. The burger is thick and moist with a nice crunchy exterior, and comes topped with a tasty mix of pickled onion, avocado, and cilantro crema. A pile of crisp and salty curly fries is served alongside.
Did I mention ours was a table of carnivores? Our next entree was Steak Frites, which we unanimously voted the best steak we’ve been served on Nantucket, ever! Cooked to a perfect medium rare, as ordered, with deliciously charred edges and topped with a bright chimichurri, Chef Bracy’s 12-ounce NY sirloin is fork-tender and juicy. It’s served with a house-made garlic aioli, which we used to dip our parmesan-truffle curly frites.
Bracy’s newly added Pan-Roasted Statler Chicken Breast is destined to be another top-choice on the Brotherhood’s summer menu. The succulent chicken with splendidly crispy skin is plated on a luscious green goddess aioli that’s creamy and herbacious with hints of citrus. Overtop the chicken are microgreens and a corn and cherry tomato relish that is cool and fresh and sweet.
The kitchen here is every bit as skilled with seafood as they are with preparing meats, and Chef Bracy’s new summer preparation of Grilled Salmon is sensational. The very fresh, thick filet is cooked through, but still comes apart in large, moist flakes at the touch of a fork. The fish is served with a whole grain glaze over roasted fingerlings that are perfect for finishing up every bit of the buttery castelvetrano olive vinaigrette spooned over the salmon.
Dessert at The Brotherhood is not to be missed, but with the very generous portions served here at every course, you might want to share. A year-round favorite is the Chocolate Chip Cookie Sundae topped with vanilla ice cream melting into the warm cookie. This time of year, we choose the Strawberry Shortcake, with warm housemade biscuits, sweet and juicy berries, vanilla ice cream, and whipped cream.
Bravo! to Chef Roland Bracy and his kitchen crew. And we’d be remiss if we didn’t give special shout-outs to Brooke and Daniel: two of the many gracious, patient, ever-cheerful servers that make guests at The Brotherhood feel special.
The Brotherhood of Thieves
23 Broad Street • 774-325-5812 • BrotherhoodNantucket.com
serving continuously from 11:30 am; bar open till midnight
Different menus in the Brotherhood’s concepts & Kids’ Menu
Burgers & entrees range in price from $18.50 to $38
indoor & outdoor dining • handicap accessible • several bars • live music
