Featured Restaurant: Dune
by Suzanne Daub
Those who like to go down a road less traveled should make reservations to dine at Dune, in the heart of downtown Nantucket at 20 Broad Street.
When chef-owner Michael Getter opened Dune in 2009, after working for decades in the Nantucket culinary scene and as a wine pro, word quickly spread about his superb, innovative cuisine featuring fresh seasonal ingredients. Now, 15 years later, Chef Getter and his talented team are still serving some of the best food on Nantucket in preparations that make every meal a fun culinary adventure.
There is a perfect wine pairing for every dish served at Dune, along with bottles that have special appeal. If your tastes run more toward distilled beverages, check in with Tierney Moses, a creative force behind the bar at Dune this season. Not only does she have years of experience, she is a Level 2 Mezcal Sommelier It may just be the perfect time to try this smoky spirit in a special cocktail. If you are among the growing number of “sober curious,” Tierney has designed four mocktails that you’ll find more intriguing then typical “virgin” cocktails. We’d happily sip her Great Pretender, a refreshing and summery blend of hibiscus-infused agave, lime, and soda. And to accompany a hearty meal (perhaps Dune’s Grilled Pork Tenderloin or their Sirloin), try the Smoke Screen: an uncommon mix of lapsang souchang tea, pineapple, honey, coconut, and lime.
We started our recent meal with a bit of theatre. Our server Cecilia presented a bowl with a generous scoop of jumbo crab meat, lemon gel, basil, and lavender; overtop she slowly poured a vibrant green Spring Pea Bisque. Spoonful after spoonful, the flavors blossomed in the warm, creamy soup. With spring about to turn to summer, you may not have much longer to enjoy Dune’s Spring Pea Bisque, though there is sure to be superb summer season soup to replace it as the menu (and the harvest) changes.
Full of delicate flavors and a variety of textures, the Sunchoke and Fennel Salad is a light way to start a meal. Thin, crisp slices of sunchoke offset the anise flavor of crunchy fennel with their slightly sweet earthiness. Fresh leaves of red endive add a softer crunch. Green olive vinaigrette ties the salad together and adds a briny tang. Whole almonds, juicy slices of orange, and shavings of parmesan are scattered about, along with chopped green olives. Red-veined beet leaves and blue cornflowers add color to this delicious study in white.
Dune’s Pan-Roasted Jersey Asparagus is a vivid plate of tasty tidbits around thin spears of fresh asparagus, perfectly roasted till tender with a slight char. A little of this and a little of that gives you a chance to customize this appetizer as you wish, mixing and matching creamy feta, fresh herbs, mint, crushed hazelnuts, roasted red peppers, intensely flavored compressed cantaloupe, dabs of tangy lemon curd, and “black olive crumbles” that add surprising pops of salty goodness.
Though we found it impossible to choose a single favorite among Dune’s spectacular starters, we’ve got to give high praise to the House Stracciatella “Toast.” We’re not sure if the word toast is in quotes because the bread is grilled instead of toasted or because the word toast is just too simple for this delectable layering of flavors. On top of the grilled sourdough is a rich and creamy housemade stracciatella cheese. Piled on the cheese is a delicious mix of very fresh spring vegetables and pea greens, with pieces of smoky Calabrian chile that add a bit of heat—really more of a glow. Shards of prosciutto as crisp as chips add just the right amount of salt.
The chefs at Dune give sparkling flavor to a dish that seems seductively simple: their Crudo of East Coast Yellowfin Tuna. The clean taste of sushi-grade tuna is heightened by a bright pink pool of roasted strawberry and yuzu, jalapeno, red onion, and cilantro. The sweet, tart, fruity, citrusy sauce contrasts and enhances the delicate fish. Admire the color, then close your eyes and let the flavors excite your palate.
Another of Getter’s sauces makes magic in the Pan-Roasted Atlantic Cod Loin. In this entrée, it’s a rich coconut-lemongrass broth that surrounds flaky, moist cod, seared to give it a golden crust. Fried garlic is sprinkled overtop the fish, and served in the broth around the fish are chunks of purple potato, asparagus, green cauliflower, bok choy, and shiitake mushrooms. We briefly considered picking up the bowl to sip the remaining broth.
Pan-Roasted Day Boat Sea Scallops are as luscious as the cod. This is another dish that encourages you to choose your own adventure. Slice one of the perfectly cooked, sweet, translucent scallops to savor alone. Then try another bite of scallop with scoop of parmesan grits and a shaving of truffle… add a maitake mushroom and parsnipleek puree to your next taste. Each approach you choose has a different flavor profile and a new adventure.
Dune chefs have a very different and just as delicious preparation for their Blackened Wester Ross Salmon. The seasoning level is just right: all the flavor of blackening but just a touch of the heat. The salmon is served on a mole that is earthy-sweet and smoky, and it’s topped with a cool, crisp salsa verde. Alongside is a colorful combo of roasted sweet potato, pickled onions, cilantro, and grilled squash.
Carnivores will be captivated by the Prime Sirloin Steak entrée. Grilled to a rosy medium rare (as ordered) with gloriously charred edges, the supremely tender, juicy steak is sliced and fanned out around the plate. A ramp chimichurri that is lighter than the traditional condiment is delicious on the beefy sirloin. Yucca fries, crispy outside and creamy inside, and queso fresco add more South American flair.
Vegetarians are not neglected at Dune, where the Vegetarian Tasting is a bountiful feast of fresh
garden flavors and bold accompaniments. This well-considered assemblage of six tastings features different flavors, temperatures, and textures. It’s a very satisfying selection sure to make a guest feel special: the components are likely to shift as harvests change. We were served warm and creamy Sweet Potatoes topped with a cool, crisp tomatillo salsa; Greens with steamed bok choy and cauliflower; Fingerlings roasted till golden brown and presented on a robust garlic aioli with fried garlic; a bundle of Grilled Asparagus with pickled onion; Lentil Salad on a sweet carrot puree, topped with shaved radish; and Roasted Carrots charred and sweet with a cool avocado yogurt sauce. This Vegetarian Tasting is so much more than just an after-thought!
The final adventure to choose at Dune is which dessert will be your grand finale. Their Chocolate Pot de Crème is a well-done classic, with chocolate crumbles and peanuts adding crunch to the satiny-smooth delight. Dulcey Macaron is an impressive choice. The macrons have a slight crunch and deliciously chewy texture; alongside are bruléed banana, a scoop of creme brulée ice cream, and a light sponge cake made to look like cotton candy with a bit of culinary magic.
As pretty as it is delicious, the Strawberry-Rhubarb Opera Cake has layer upon layer of moist cake, whipped cream filling, and a sleek rhubarb gel over top. There’s house made ricotta gelato to eat with the cake, or you can choose some fresh strawberries, or candied rhubarb, or pistachios, or a dab of calamansi gel.
For light finish, our choice is the cool, fruity, and refreshing Mango Trifle: mango cremeux, accented with strawberry pearls, toasted coconut, whipped cream, and freshly chopped mango. D inner at Dune is a Nantucket adventure you won’t want to miss!
Dune
20 Broad Street • DuneNantucket.com • 508-228-5550
Dinner nightly from 5:30 pm; Bar opens at 5 pm
Dinner entrees range in price from $46.50 to $56.50
Indoor & Outdoor Patio Dining • Major Credit Cards Accepted • Full Bar
Call to ask about private dining options
