In This Issue

TOPPER'S at the Wauwinet
Exhale...Relax...Indulge

An oasis of luxury at the edge of the Coskata-Coatue Wildlife Refuge, The Wauwinet Inn and its award-winning restaurant TOPPER’S are at farthest point you can go along the northern tip of the island without a beach permit and a four-wheel drive vehicle. 

You can travel there over water on a leisurely complimentary one-hour cruise aboard The Wauwinet Lady.  You can go via the Wauwinet van. Or you can drive the 10.5 miles, as we did. The drive takes only about 20 minutes, but Wauwinet feels a world apart from downtown Nantucket.  The Polpis Road winds past The Shipwreck Museum, past cranberry bogs and beautiful private estates, past the turnoff to the Hidden Forest (no, we won’t tell exactly where that is), and, finally, past the Wauwinet gatehouse.  When you pull up to The Wauwinet, there’s no mistaking that you’ve arrived at a very special place. 

The carefully manicured grounds look intentionally wild, befitting the location.  The path to the restaurant takes you to the entrance of the heated Deck, complete with comfy black wicker chairs and marble tables.  The view is of the chef’s garden and the sparkling waters of the harbor just a short stroll away.  If you do come via The Wauwinet Lady, you’re approach will be from The Wauwinet’s private dock, across the lawn, and through the lovely gardens.

TOPPER’S Deck and lower patio are favored spots for breakfast, brunch, and lunch, and on warm summer evenings they provide relaxed seating for dinner.  Guests can order off the regular dinner menu or they can partake of one of the Deck’s special menus.  A four-course, $49 “Modern Clambake” is offered several evenings a week, and features Creamy Lobster Bisque or Lobster Profiteroles, Caesar Salad, Butter Poached Lobster with steamers, roasted potatoes, and corn, followed by warm chocolate chip cookies with a raspberry vanilla soda.  Offered occasionally at the whim of the chef are a New York Steakhouse Night and TFC TOPPER’S Fried Chicken Night (call the restaurant for scheduling of these specials, which changes weekly).  Every day, from 2:30 to 5 pm, Wauwinet Punch and the TOPPER’S Cocktail are offered for $5, along with $2 “Bites” that change daily and may feature chilled oysters, artisan cheese, housemade charcuterie, or shrimp.

The refined elegance of the inn extends to the inside dining room.  The room is adorned with fine paintings and sculpture, and tables are appointed with crystal and china.  Fresh flowers are everywhere. TOPPER’S and The Wauwinet are all about taking care of guests:  the entire staff is dedicated to this and it shows in stellar service at every level.  From the hostess to the bellmen, every staffer tries to accommodate every request. 

TOPPER’S has even found ways to respond to the times without sacrificing their uncompromising standards and quality. Cellar Master Craig Hanna has introduced “In Honor of the World Ecoconomy Wines,” a full page of his exceptional, 1800 label wine list devoted to selections that start at just $22 a bottle.  According to Sommelier Jeremy Gramling, “The focus this year is on great value and pricing on mature vintages and Grand Crus from the region of Nantucket’s official sister city of Beaune in the Burgundy Region of France...and The Rhone, Piedmont, and Champagne.”

For the fourth year, Executive Chef David Daniels is at the helm of TOPPER’S kitchen, and he runs a tight ship.  Absolutely everything served here is of the highest quality and is made in-house, even the charcuterie, which Daniels describes lovingly as “an art unto itself.”  Exotic spices selected during the chef’s travels line one wall of the gleaming kitchen and flavor the variety of dishes and sauces with tastes of Thailand, Brittany, and beyond.

Chef Daniels explains himself as being “inspired by the second...I like changing the menu all the time...creativity has no boundaries.”  Anyone perusing the TOPPER’S menu immediately notices the variety, and the menu changes frequently, not just seasonally.  Portions are well-measured to satisfy, artfully presented, and each dish seems to have a touch of whimsy or culinary artistry that adds a fun surprise.  The menu, too, is playfully written without being cheeky.

Guests here can feel confident putting themselves in the hands of the chef by ordering the Tasting Menu.  This menu changes nightly—the evening we spent at TOPPER’S the Chef’s Menu was a six-course tasting with wine pairings optional. 

TOPPER’S cold appetizers are a light and summery introduction to the meal,  and are especially good when that introduction includes a glass or two of sparkling Prosecco di Conegliano. 

	We highly recommend the Spicy Ahi Tuna Roll, which festively features deep red, sushi-grade tuna two ways.  Sashimi-style, it is topped with a dollop of truffled cream and jauntily garnished with a single pea shoot.  Nestled alongside is a tempura roll with a nice spark of heat that wakes up your senses but doesn’t last.  Both are set in an edamame puree, and the tempura roll is adorned with fun and tasty “truffle bubbles.”
	We were pleased to again be able to order Tomato, Tomato, Tomato, Chef Daniels’ colorful gallery of heirloom tomatoes.  Six different varieties at the peak of flavor are served over a smear of creamy goat cheese and topped with cubes of chevre, basil leaves, and scoops of glacé au fromage de chevre (goat cheese ice cream) that add the perfect refreshing touch.
	Our favorite among the cold appetizers is the Carpaccio of Wagyu Beef, which arrives at table looking like a wreath of tasty morsels.  The thinly sliced carpaccio is thick enough to get the full flavor of this sumptuous and fine-textured beef.  The slices are decorated with ricotta stuffed zucchini blossoms, shaved parmesan, celery fronds, kalamata olives, thin slices of radish, tomato, and dots of white truffle emulsion.  Every bite of this beautiful composition is different but equally delicious.
Chef Daniels is first-generation Italian-American, “My mom taught me that great macaroni is good with everything.”  In two of his appetizers, he explores this and proves it true!  The Truffled Rigatoni and Cheeses, filled with aged gruyere and gouda and topped with pouligny chevre fondue is a patron favorite.
	The Carbonara “My Way” is a luscious stack of ricotta-stuffed cavatelli, layered with bits of bacon and plump English peas.  There are whispers of truffle oil throughout and a single perfect quail egg on top.  This dish could have been very heavy, but somehow is not.  Both pasta dishes are sophisticated comfort food at their best.
	Another tasty take on a classic Italian dish is the Modern Fritto Misto.  Chef Daniels’ version includes lobster, shrimp, mussels, calamari, and scallops in a light tempura batter.  “Small garden flavors” of baby greens and tempura vegetables are tossed into the mix.  Served alongside for dipping is an XO mayo with a jolt of spicy heat from chile and garlic of Chinese XO sauce.  This starter is ideal for sharing around the table.
Every one of the seven entrees on the dinner menu features a high-end ingredient with an unusual pairing or uncommon preparation—every one is very good.  If you want to make the evening extra special, and if you have at least four others with you, add the Whole Roasted Hudson Valley Foie Gras to your choices.  Being particularly fond of this delicacy, we inquired about ordering it as an entree, but our server gently suggested this special enhancement is best when shared among five or more.  Just as well, because the entrees we chose instead were sensational!
	Top of the list is the Butter Poached Lobster.  The claw with lobster tail curled ‘round it is served on a bright lobster bisque.  Cooked this way, the lobster is indescribably good—so tender and moist that it almost seems undercooked, though it is perfect.  Clearly the lobster is star of this show, but the accompaniments also deserve high praise.  A pretty sautee of tiny mushrooms, fava beans, and thumbelina carrots are spread along a line of carrot puree.  A single, juicy artichoke tortellini adorns one end.
	Yellowfin Tuna a la Japanaise is a delightful cross-cultural experience.  In an exquisite pairing of land and sea, Chef Daniels tops the beautifully seared chunks of tuna with beautifully seared slices of soy glazed foie gras.  Underneath is a classic bearnaise flavored with three types of ocean lettuces and overtop is a sweet gastrique of candied peaches.  The foie adds richness to the fish and the tuna keeps the foie in check.  It’s a perfect balance.  Tucked between the tuna, a delightful jumble of hon-shimeji mushrooms and scallions add a soft crunch and nutty flavor.
	Our favorite among the fruit de mer is the Skillet Roasted Dover Sole. This delicate white fish is firm and sweet, and Chef Daniels heightens that sweetness with a wonderful and extraordinary coating which we’ve decided not to reveal.  We don’t want to spoil your fun in trying to guess what it is (no fair asking before your plate is clean)!  The sole is laid across a savory mix of bacon, summer chard, and pearl onion in browned butter over a cauliflower puree.  You can mix in the dustings of dehydrated lemon, parsley, and capers adorning the plate to experiment with different notes of flavor. Sommelier Gramling brought us a fruity northern Italian Vitiano/Verdicchio Vermentino to accompany the seafood entrees and a full bodied, rustic Philippe Naddef Marsanny to complement the meats.
	The focus of Chef Daniels’ Veal Veal Veal entree is obvious—what is suprising is how very different the three preparations of veal are in taste and texture.  The veal osso bucco is meltingly tender and the deep fried marrow contrasts with a delicious crunch.  Slices of center cut veal sirloin are firm and lean and meaty, and the single ravioli of veal cheek is a succulent treasure in a tender pocket of pasta.  This entree is accompanied by a hominy foam studded with a trio of baby onions.
	Yankee Pot Roast is not an entree you’d expect to see on a menu featuring haute cuisine, but in Chef Daniels’ hands, this entree is both sensational and sophisticated.  The short rib, wagyu of course, comes apart at the touch of a fork and is full of deep beefy flavor, yet is not in the least bit fatty.  Flanking the beef is a combination of tender-crisp vegetables: green beans, carrot, corn, peas, and onion.  The surprise treat with this entree is the encapsulated truffle ravioli perched atop the rib.  Pop the entire thing in your mouth and savor the sensuous explosion of flavor.  It’s the perfect expression of umami.
	Desserts at TOPPER’S are no mere afterthought.  Pastry Chef Serge Torres creates sweet tableaux that are almost too pretty to eat.  Almost.  His Chocolate Macaroon Napoleon is a layered delight with crunchy praline adding texture and orange supreme and orange jelly cutting the intensity of the chocolate.  A touch of gold leaf will add a little self worth to whomever claims that end.
	Impossible to pronounce and impossible to pass up is the Gianduja Chocolate, Banana, and Passion Fruit Cremeux.  It’s similar to a mousse, yet fuller and smoother.  The banana and passion fruit complement by contrast the dark chocolate flavored with hazelnut paste.  The Coconut Malibu Sorbet served alongside is just gilding the lily.
	Even the Creme Brulee at TOPPER’S has a unique flavor and presentation:  vanilla-fig creme brulee, served in a miniature mason jar, accompanied by a sensational red pepper marmalade.

So drive, ride, or boat out to TOPPER’S at The Wauwinet and savor summer like never before.  Exhale, relax, and indulge. 

TOPPER’S at The Wauwinet

508-228-8768 • reservations recommended • www.wauwinet.com
Lunch served Monday-Saturday from 12 noon to 2 p.m.
Sunday Brunch served 12-2 p.m. • Dinner served nightly from 6-9:30 p.m.
Entrees range from $32 to $49
Modern Clambake, NY Steakhouse Night, TFC Toppers — $49
TOPPER’S by Water complimentary cruises to the restaurant at 11am & 5pm
Tasting Menu available for the table • Award-winning wine list
full bar service  •  major credit cards accepted

Photos by Taryn Daub