Dune:
Welcome Back to Nantucket
When Chef Michael Getter left American Seasons, the island eatery he made an island culinary focal point, he was ready for a change to the role of sommelier and wine expert. “But the moment I left [the restaurant business and Nantucket], I missed it!,” he exclaimed. Last fall, when the opportunity arose to open his own restaurant in the heart of Nantucket in the former location of Cioppino’s, he jumped at the chance.
Months of refurbishing, designing and decorating with Anne Becker Design, and planning and creating the culinary character and menu of the new restaurant resulted in Dune, which opened this spring.
Outside dining at Dune is wonderfully civilized. Tables on the brick patio are sheltered by wide beach umbrellas, and large pots of dune grass add a beachy feel.
Inside, the ambiance is Nantucket chic. It reminds us of some of our favorite contemporary Boston haunts, but with a casual elegance that fits so well with our island. Built as a private home in 1850, the first and second floor dining rooms have been transformed with soothing beach tones and striking fixtures that have beautifully organic curved lines reminiscent of shells. There are two rooms upstairs, either would be ideal for private celebrations. Downstairs, the dining room has been opened up, exposing a double-sided fireplace that we’re looking forward this winter! Short walls separate the dining area from the bar, so you don’t feel like you’re eating in a pub.
Brazilian quartzite bar
An exotic Brazilian quartzite bar dominates the entry, with lovely swirling colors of gray and sand and amber. With Tommy behind the bar, there’s never a dull moment. Favorite summer specialty cocktails include Ivey’s Poison, refreshing with muddled mint and strawberries, the sophisticated London Club, and the powerful Hot & Dirty. We can also say with confidence that Dune ties for first place for the island’s best Espresso Martini. The bar opens at noon when lunch begins, and through the evening till closing at 1 am, the Dune bar is a popular gathering place. When dinner guests depart, the lights go down, the music goes up, and the bar crowd can spill into the dining area for a more comfortable night.
Entrance to Dune on Broad St.
Michael Getter knew before he opened Dune that he wanted to emphasize fresh, high quality food and to serve it at rational prices. When he connected with Chef Michael Zentner, he knew it would be the perfect collaboration. Like Getter, Zentner has a diverse experience and broad talents; his style respects the honest flavors of food; and he emphasizes freshness and proper technique.
“I have a Mediterranean feel to my cooking,” Chef Zentner explained, “I do use heavy cream and butter, but I balance them differently than other [chefs]...I try to extract the pure flavors...when you’ve been on the beach all day, you want something light, not heavy.”
The cuisine at Dune is straightforward and simple. This is not to say you’ll be choosing from steamed fish and sauteed meats—the dishes have an stunning level of sophistication that showcases the chef’s ability to make simple, fresh ingredients sing with perfect pitch.
Upstairs Dining Room
Lunch fare at Dune features light and summery dishes, such as Pan-Roasted Prawns, Pan-Seared Salmon, Crispy Fried Oyster Tartine, Focaccia & Portobello Sandwich, and a Dune Burger. There is also a Aged Sirloin, and it comes with a seasonal cucumber tomato salad. Several of the lunch appetizers are also offered on the dinner menu.
Dinner starts at 6 pm, and if the weather is as it should be in July, ask to sit on the patio. We advise reservations: as more discover Dune, tables are sure to be in high demand.
Patio Dining
In addition to establishing the culinary character of his restaurant and collaborating on the actual menus, Michael Getter has used his considerable wine knowledge to create a fine international wine list that is not only approachable, but also offers exceptional value. The selections are arranged by style—Sparkling, Light & Crisp, Medium & Aromatic, Rich & Full—which makes it much easier to select a bottle that matches your meal and your preference. If you need assistance, Getter is always happy to help.
A basket of freshly baked bread was brought to our table as we perused the menus, and we had to take care not to overindulge in the warm, crusty slices. Everything at Dune is prepared in-house, from the ketchup to the burger buns, and that makes all the difference!
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A good soup can be a measure of a good chef, and Zentner’s Sweet Corn Soup is superb! With a handful of ingredients and just a touch of cream, his soup will knock your socks off! It starts with a delicate, clean flavor of sweet summer corn, but when you take a bite of the smoky pork belly fritter floating on top, the yin/yang contrast makes the flavors shimmer.
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We continued with Yellow Fin Tuna Nicoise that manages to showcase the simple ocean freshess of the seared tuna, while accenting it with the bold flavors of puckery caperberries and olives. Pieces of wax beans add a pleasant soft crunch.
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| We realized through the meal that these accents of flavor are a hallmark of Chef Zentner’s cooking. He often adds an acidic or hot element—pickled shallots, balsamic vinegar, caperberries, pickled cerrano chilies—to a dish to highten the flavors. “I like to cut them up in larger pieces so it pops in your mouth...so there are only two or three bits of hot, but those are hot...” he explained. “That way the dish stays interesting, the food doesn’t get boring.” |
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One of our table favorites among the appetizers on Dune’s new summer menu is the beautifully presented Roasted Beet Salad. Prepared so it emphasizes the sweet, earthy flavor of the golden yellow and deep red beets, the salad is sprinkled with pistachio nuts, and topped with broad shavings of parmesan and micro-greens. Underneath is a mellow layer of creamy whipped goat cheese. Taken all together, the flavors blossom in your mouth.
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Pan-Roasted Shrimp is another winning starter. Curled around a deep golden cake of saffron risotto, the shrimp (served head on but detached) have a delightfully clean flavor enhanced by drizzles of a buttery sauce of garlic and lemon basil, studded with red and yellow halves of cherry tomatoes.
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When it’s done correctly, foie gras is heaven on earth. After one bite of Chef Zentner’s Seared La Belle Farms Foie Gras, we could hear angels sing. The beautifully marked foie is rich and buttery, and its umami undertones melt across your tongue. It’s almost more experience than it is taste. It’s served on a round of toasty brioche over caramelized and chopped vidalia onion. With a half of a fig drizzled with balsamic alongside. The foie captured our complete attention, and we’d go back for more in a heartbeat.
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Chef Zentner mentioned pork as one of his favorite foods, and you can taste the love in his Berkshire Pork Chop and Crispy Cheek entree. The thick chop is cooked through, its edges deliciously charred from the grill yet the meat remains succulent especially along the bone. Tucked underneath is a circle of seared grits flavored with marscarpone and a summery garnish of basil and sweet onion in olive oil. Delightfully crisp on the outside and tender inside, pork cheek is the treat perched on top of the chop. Juicy bits of diced fresh peach finish the dish.
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Painted Hills Farm Beef Sirloin is also top-notch! This entree is presented stacked: Great Hill Blue cheese, yellow tomatoes, green beans, and pickled shallots form the colorful and delicious base. The steak, cut into thick slices is next, topped with fingerling potatoes, roasted till they’re crisp. We adored the blue cheese with the steak, and were pleased that it was not melted overtop. Each flavor in this tasty tower retained its integrity, demonstrating again that food that tastes of itself is best.
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Chef Zetner is every bit as talented with fish as he is with meats. The Pan Roasted Atlantic Halibut is a dish full of sunny flavors. The thick halibut steak is perfectly seasoned and golden brown top and bottom, and the fish flakes apart temptingly when touched with a fork. It’s served over a summer vegetable salad of green and yellow beans, zucchini, squash, aspargus, red and yellow tomatoes, and onion tossed in a brilliant preserved lemon and herb vinaigrette. We’re not sure whether whether to think of this as fish with vegetables or vegetables with fish, but together the dish is sensational.
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Our favorite fish—in fact, our favorite entree—is the Sauteed Nantucket Fluke. Right from the docks, the fluke is as fresh as it gets. The perfectly seasoned filets are laid over a mix of fresh corn, English peas, and chunks of fingerling potato. Chef Zentner’s stroke of culinary genius is a thyme red piperade that is draped across the top and over the side. This dish has bright layers of flavor that will echo through your mouth and make you shiver with delight. We’ve never had anything like this before and can’t wait to savor it again!
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After having practically licked every plate clean, we had little room for dessert, tempting though they sound. We did indulge and must say that the pile of Warm Sugar Crusted Doughnuts, with tracings of chocolate sauce, caramel, and mint sauce, went down very easily!
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Also highly recommended is the Boca Negra Chocolate Cake, which will thrill serious chocolate fans. The richness very moist, dense flourless cake is cut by a mint sauce and mint ice cream served alongside.
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We’d be remiss if we didn’t give kudos to Greg, our waiter. Thanks, no doubt to Michael Getter’s skill and experience in training staff, Dune offers five-star service without the attitude. It was the crowning touch to a wonderful evening.
