In This Issue

American Seasons - The Passion Never Fades

In its quiet location on the edge of the historic district, American Seasons has opened the doors on its third decade with the same level of passion and energy that made this restaurants one of Nantucket’s best.  Chef Michael LaScola and Orla Murphy-LaScola, his partner in business and in life, continue to offer a stunning array of food and drink that turns first-time visitors into patrons and makes loyal patrons anxious to return.

Even during the current economic climate the enthusiasm for dinner at American Seasons hasn’t waned.  The LaScolas are offering diners what they crave:  top-notch food in a stylish but casual setting at reasonable prices.  For springtime the American Seasons “small plates,” ever popular at the bar, are now being offered at just $5 each and in the dining room a few nights a week.  Also for spring, on Sunday through Thursday, “surprise specials” are offered nightly—chef’s choice of one or two entrees from the dinner menu priced at $20 for that evening. 

The LaScolas have expanded their already impressive wine list to include selections from South and Central America, and they’re offering a new list of fine yet affordable wines. 

All of this without stifling their creativity! 

American Seasons still serves innovative dishes with creative pairings and rousing flavors—some are downright adventurous!  But Chef LaScola follows time-honored methods of preparing his ingredients.  Everything possible is made in-house, this includes doing his own brining, smoking, and curing.  Some of the preparations are days in the making.  Food like what is served at American Seasons takes time and passion.  Appetizers set high expectations for entrees that live up to the promise, followed by desserts that break the rules and make your sweet tooth sing. 

	You’ll have to make room in the middle of the table for the Charcuterie because you’ll definitely want to start with this large square platter laden with savory treats. Everything we were served, except the paper-thin slices of Bayonne ham, is made in-house — rosy rounds of tete de porc, slivers of deep pink house-smoked duck, smooth and delicate chicken liver pate, meaty country pate, deeply flavorful yet not gamey lamb sausage, and a sensational terrine combining duck confit and foie for a buttery finish.  A spoonful of intensely flavored apricot preserves, a smear of hot mustard, slices of puckery cornichon, and crisp and salty crostini complete the platter.  The four of us devoured every morsel.
	LaScola’s hearty country pate makes another appearance in the American Seasons “Meatloaf Sandwich,” a very sophisticated version of an American classic.  This appetizer is a small, precise composition building on a contrast of flavors and textures.  A thin slice of golden brioche slathered with sweet vidalia onion marmalade forms the base.  The country pate, panseared, is laid atop and drizzled with balsamic reduction before being topped off with a generous round of house-cured, buttery foie gras sprinkled with sea salt.  House-made ketchup adds bold, smoky notes reminiscent of barbecue.  We’d happily tuck into an entree-sized portion, but its richness makes this an ideal appetizer.
	On the other end of the spectrum, lighter and showcasing seafood, is the Seared Maine Day Boat Scallops.  Anyone familiar with Chef LaScola’s cuisine knows that whatever he does with scallops will be a resounding success.  He handles them perfectly!  For this dish, a trio of plump sea scallops are seared top and bottom and presented on a creamy cauliflower puree encircled by a roasted almond and golden raisin brown butter.  The combinations of sweet and savory is a hallmark of this chef and something he does very, very well.
	We tasted it again in the Half Poussin appetizer special we sampled.  The pieces were batter dipped and fried till the golden brown coating was delightfully crunchy and the tender meat of the young chicken moist.  To take this a step beyond the best fried chicken you’ve ever had, it’s finished with a honey pecan butter that adds just the right tinge of toasty sweetness.
	Simple and simply delicious best describes the Lobster Bisque—it’s just the thing to warm you on a cool spring evening.  This creamy essence of lobster is embellished with sweet English peas that pop with flavor, earthy oyster mushrooms, and just enough lemon confit to brighten the flavor.  Crunchy croutons of toasted brioche garnish the bisque.
	A wish from last season was granted when we saw the Chili Glazed Organic Salmon back on the menu.  This dish is one of LaScola’s inspired pairings:  smoky chili and ocean-fresh fish, enhanced by fruity slices of green tomato amd smoky crayfish butter sauce.  Still we chose the Seared Wild Striped Bass and were pleased that we did.  The bass is seared to give the mildly-sweet fish a crisp edge and served on a bed of crushed peas that taste of springtime. Chunks of house-smoked bacon, diced potato and carrot, and tiny clams are scattered around the bass.
	Duck is another sure-fire winner at American Seasons; the spring menu features it oven-roasted: its exquisite layer of fat beautifully crisp; its pink flesh deliciously succulent and tender.  The luscious flavor of duck persists in the accompaniment, a quinoa strewn with duck confit, toasted hazlenuts, and a bright, citrusy splash of blood orange.
	Sometimes the only food that will satisfy is a good, juicy steak.  American Seasons has that, too!  Their Wolfe Neck Farm Bone-In Sirloin is phenomenal (cover photo).  Starting with very high-quality, organically raised beef is key, but so is expert technique.  Our steak arrived exactly medium-rare, with the small amount of fat temptingly charred to melt-in-your-mouth perfection.  The steak is topped with a bit of spring herb pesto and some crispy thick-cut onion rings.  Crunchy fiddleheads are a tasty garnish, and a crock of satiny buttermilk puree of potatoes and onions is the only accompaniment this entree needs.
	Just as memorable is the Slow Braised Berkshire Pork Shank.  This is a comfort-food entree sized for Fred Flintstone.  The meat, glistening with a lucious glaze, comes off the bone with a gentle tug.  The flavor is exquisite, and when you eat the pork with some of the wilted mustard greens tucked underneath, it becomes something ethereal.  Cheddar and brioche bread pudding is served alongside with apricot compote.  And a crisp, cool garnish of sliced radish cuts the richness.  Chef LaScola revealed to us that Southern cooking is among his favorites:  “I love Southern food, and there’s not a lot of it out here.”  In this dish, you can taste the love!
	After the generous entree portions, you may want to share dessert.  Just don’t skip it—the evening’s final indulgences are well worth the calories.  It can be diffult to choose from Pastry Chef Natasha Misanko’s  creations.  Cheese plate, sorbet, and and Creme Brulee are regular choices.  We sampled and adored three new desserts.
	It’s a few weeks early for local blueberries, but the Wild Blueberry & Lemon Tart had berries that could easily pass for freshly picked atop a lemon sour cream curd that had just the right balance of sweet and tart.  The coconut and graham crust was just firm enough to hold it all, and the green tea-lemonade sorbet melted lusciously down.
	Flying Elvis is the intriguing name given to Misanko’s dark chocolate cream pie with peanut butter cookie crust topped with banana caramel ice cream to complete the reference.  You may need help with this dessert: its lucious richness could overwhelm even the most devoted chocolate fan.
	Our table favorite was the English Toffee and Caramel Cake.  This moist, buttery cake is surrounded by toffee and chocolate cookie crumbles and topped with crisp lacy fleur du sel tuille toffee and malted milk chocolate ice cream.  A selection from Orla LaScola’s fine array of Irish whiskies is the perfect accompaniment.

If you share the LaScola’s passion for food—if you live to eat instead of eat to live—then American Seasons is the restaurant for you!

 

American Seasons

www.AmericanSeasons.com •  80 Centre Street  •  508-228-7111
reservations suggested  •  casually elegant, comfortably relaxed
Dinner Menu and Bar Menu served from 6 p.m.
entree prices range from $25.00 to $33.50
Small plates menu selections $5 each for Spring
All-Americas wine list and full bar
Amex, Visa, MasterCard accepted  •  no children’s menu 
Outdoor Lounge  •  open April – December