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In This Issue
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56 Union
Escape from the Ordinary
 There is no better place to enjoy an evening on Nantucket than where the cuisine is varied, the cocktails are innovative, the ambiance is one of playful sophistication, and the service has that ideal mix of warmth and professionalism.
This restaurant is Fifty-Six Union, just a short and pleasant walk from Main. It is no surprise that this is one of the few island eateries that can draw and keep enough loyal patrons to stay open year-round.
From the front, Fifty-Six looks small, but this is misleading. Inside there are two bright and spacious dining rooms with chic yet comfortable decor and warm palette. The bar is surrounded by a dozen or so tall comfy chairs, though you’d best come early to score one—seats around the bar at Fifty-Six are in high demand! The bar scene here is a lot of fun. It’s not as young as the Tavern nor as pretentious as The Pearl—it draws a range of ages and a great mix of locals and summer residents. Banter around the bar is common. Whether you’ve been on Nantucket for generations or just a few hours, you’ll feel comfortable and part of the crowd.
If you’ve been reading our Featured Restaurant articles this season, then you’re waiting to hear who ties Dune for the island’s best Espresso Martini. Fifty-Six is it with their top-notch version! Libations Consultant Anna Worgess makes hers with freshly brewed espresso and no cream or Bailey’s. For an aprés beach refresher, try Anna’s summer Sangria, made fresh with an ever evolving blend of fresh blueberries, nectarines, apple, blackberries, raspberries, mango, mint and a mix of Sauvignon Blanc and several other spirits.
Alfresco dining is also offered at Fifty-Six on the back patio surrounded by a tall wooden fence and sheltered by an awning. And then there’s “Table 56.” Set in their lush garden, this special spot is perfect for private celebrations. It seats from 6 to 12 and is festively set up under its own awning with sides that can be pulled closed. Guests can order off the regular dinner menu or arrange in advance for a special tasting menu.
The menu at Fifty-Six changes seasonally, with a few perennial favorites. Chef Peter Janelle has created just the right combination of tastes and textures and prepares each element of every appetizer and entree with a perfect touch. Meats are succulent, fish is moist and flaky, sauces and accompaniments are designed to enhance rather than overpower, presentation is colorful and visually appealing without being flamboyant...the food at Fifty-Six is so good that it is difficult not to speak of it completely in superlatives. The impressive wine list designed by Wendy Janelle is full of choices that play well with food.
Starters at Fifty-Six are always so strong that we often make a meal of two or three of them. Escargot Bourguignonne and Clams Casino are favorites for sharing, along with the restaurant’s justifiably famous Truffle Frites. Salads are light and refreshing and out of the ordinary. The Fifty-Six Caesar is a Southwestern Caesar, with cornbread croutons and roasted poblano chilies.
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Beets are appearing in salads all over town this season, but here the Roasted Beet Salad stands out for making the vibrant red beets the star of the show. Roasting heightens the sweetness and sprinklings of toasted walnuts and blue cheese are tasty contrasts in flavor and texture. Tender mache tossed in tarragon vinaigrette adds a garden freshness. |
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One taste of Janelle’s hand-crafted Crab Rangoons and you will never again order them anywhere else. They’re that good! Inside each delightfully crunchy wrapper is a blend of sweet crab, tiny bits of scallion and red pepper, a little lemon zest to brighten the flavors, and just enough marscarpone to hold it together.
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New this summer are Philly Cheese Steak Spring Rolls. These juicy two-bite pockets of marinated steak, caramelized onion, and cheddar are more of an upscale interpretation of a Philly cheese steak than the true sloppy sandwich, but the flavors are there, and we like the sriracha instead of pizza sauce.
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The Curried Mussels are listed under Starters, but this bistro-style dish is served in a large enough portion to be a light meal. Pair this with an order of the truffle frites and a glass of sauvignon blanc, close your eyes, and dream of Paris. The plump, sweet mussels are served in a fragrant yellow Thai curry broth full of warm, vivid flavor. There is a gentle kick to the curry, but not enough to overshadow the delicate shellfish. Tucked under the mussels, you’ll discover a portion of rice that serves to mop up the broth, but we found ourselves dipping in with spoons to finish every drop.
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Last winter, Chef Janelle introduced the Fifty-Six Burger to his menu, and we’re pleased to report that it is still a popular offering. More than just a really good burger, the unusual mix of meats featured in each changes at the whim of the chef. His inventive combinations have included ground angus beef and chorizo sausage, venison and beef, sausage and lamb, and bacon and buffalo. We sampled buffalo and wild boar in a thick patty that was juicy and full-flavored. The burger comes with melted cheddar (or not, if you request) on a lightly toasted English muffin. Served alongside is a thick ruby-red slice of tomato, red onion, lettuce and the classic trio of mustard, ketchup, and mayonnaise so that you can customize your burger. It also comes with a tangle of thin and crispy onion rings dusted with ancho chili powder for a spark of heat.
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Chef Janelle’s fish preparations are always top-notch, and evening specials often feature whatever the local fishermen have landed that day.
On Nantucket, Codfish is comfort food. In the hands of this chef, it’s wicked good comfort food! The fish is coated in a golden brown mix of wild mushroom and panko that adds a luscious crunch to the moist cod. It’s served on a light and creamy polenta that’s like eating a cloud of corn. A red pepper aioli alongside adds robust flavor.
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Even better is the Day Boat Fluke. The thick filets have the supremely delicate, clean flavor that comes only with the freshest of fish. Almond flour adds a nice texture and slight crunch, and a brilliant red beet coulis lends a whisper of sweetness. The fluke is served over a rich and earthy mix of puy, masoor, and yellow lentils, carrot, red pepper, and celery that very nearly steals the show.
If it’s meat you’re after, then order the Roasted Half Rack of Colorado Lamb, a superb preparation of tender chops painted with mustard and coated with herbed panko. The lamb is served on a minted tabbouleh and anointed with a classic bearnaise.
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When the Pan Roasted Pork Chop was brought to our table, the first thing we noticed was the enticing aroma. The first bite lived up to that olfactory promise! This dish is a triumph of flavor—bravo Peter! The huge pork chop is cooked through but remains moist and tender. A sweet but not syrupy cider gastrique scented with cinnamon is poured overtop and a garnish of chilled chopped green apple adds a pleasantly tangy crunch. Potato gnocchi, sauteed till golden brown, are served alongside.
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Also remarkably good is the Grilled Breast of Duck. Crisp skin with an appealing char surrounds lean and succulent meat. The duck is sliced and fanned out next to a deep purple mix of forbidden rice and shallot. This entree is served in pool of raspberry and green tea glaze that is deeply flavored with sweet highlights |
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We like to end our meals at Fifty-Six Union with what they playfully call their “After Dinner Jolt”—the Espresso Martini. But if you have a sweet tooth to satisfy, then the Butterscotch Brownie Sundae is just the ticket! The chewy, moist brownie studded with walnuts and coconut is topped with a scoop of Haagen Dazs vanilla, and drizzled with caramel sauce.
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We also enjoyed the Chocolate Pound Cake with calvados-cider ice cream and dark chocolate sauce. Our table favorite is the Berry Shortcake—a very well-done classic with freshly whipped cream between biscuits surrounded by juicy strawberries and blueberries.
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Escape the ordinary! Come to Fifty-Six Union for a evening of fabulous food, first-class cocktails, and fun.
Fifty-Six Union
www.fiftysixunion.com
Open year-round at 56 Union Street • 508-228-6135
Bar opens at 5 pm; Dinner served nightly from 5:30 pm
Entree price range is $17 to $47
indoor and outdoor dining; full bar
available for private celebrations • major credit cards accepted
plenty of parking
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