For generations, the Jared Coffin House has been very much a part of life on Nantucket. There have been many marriages in the garden followed by receptions in the dining room...we all enjoyed breakfasts in the dining room and lunches on the patio...we brought our children to see the decorated Christmas tree, the cranberry wreath, and the elaborate gingerbread houses during the holidays...and every February there was entertainment in the Tap Room...and over the years, hundreds of us had our first island jobs there. The stately brick mansion at the corner of Broad and Federal streets is so much more than a landmark: it’s part of the heart of our community.
Change is inevitable, but it seemed particularly poignant when it came to the island’s beloved JC House. And that is why it was so exciting this April when the dining room re-opened under the skilled direction of long-time island resident and restaurateur Michael Sturgis.
From 1984, Sturgis has worked at and managed many fine island establishments: The Opera House, 21 Federal, The Brant Point Grill, and was owner of Cinco. He loves being back in the center of Nantucket Town: “It feels really good...location, location, location...I’ve seen people this season that I haven’t seen since the 1990s, and they’ve all been supportive.”
When presented with the opportunity to take over the restaurant in the Jared Coffin House, Sturgis must have known it would be a challenge: so many people here fondly remembered and missed what had been. By all measures, he’s met the challenge and surpassed expectations—the Jared Coffin House dining room has been transformed!
“The dining room was, in a sense, a blank canvas...everything there now is new, even the light fixtures...” Sturgis worked closely with Nantucket interior designer Kathleen Hay to create in the space what he describes as a “nice yin and yang between old Nantucket hotel and modern dining room—upscale but comfortable.” Colors are neutral and relaxing. The wide open space of the dining room is broken up by hanging architectural accents that make the tables seem more private without making them confined. Chairs are comfy and butcher paper over the rich brown tablecloths adds a casual note. The walls are adorned with stunning photographs by Jeffrey Allen: island architecture in the dining room and sensual florals in the lounge.
“I couldn’t be happier with Kathleen’s work!” Sturgis exclaimed. “We did a 6-month project in 9 weeks, thanks to the support of the Nantucket community and the Town...everyone went out of their way to help me open on time.”
Photo by Jeff Allen
In addition to the dining room and lounge, Brick Bistro also serves on the sheltered patio fronting Broad Street. Seats there are in high demand for all meals.
The name, Brick Bistro, was chosen to embody the history of one of Nantucket’s historic brick mansions and the cuisine showcased, which Sturgis calls “bistro food with a twist.” Executive Chef Alex Sigeti, assisted by sous chef Scooter Sturgis (yes, talent runs in the family), has designed menus for breakfast, lunch, and dinner that takes a novel approach to bistro classics.
Breakfast offerings start with Croissant or Spiced Popovers and include 8 entrees including Pumpkin Bread French Toast, Lobster Eggs Benedict, Heuvos Rancheros, or a signature Brick Omelet with sundried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, feta, and arugula.
Lunch features Smoked Tomato Soup, Crispy Katafi Shrimp (one of Michael Sturgis’ favorites), Sweet & Spicy Nantucket Mussels, a variety of summer salads, Bistro Salmon and 5 sandwiches that include a Grilled Proscuitto Wrap and Chicken Salad Flatbread.
Dinner is where the talents of Chef Signeti and Sturgis truly shine! Of the nine appetizers offered, only two sounded familiar: the Mixed Green Salad and the South Lake Oysters on the half shell. The other seven were all intriguing interpretations of bistro fare.
| click on images for larger view |
 |
We started with the Peach and Serrano Salad (it was a tough choice between that and the luscious sounding Strawberry & Goat Cheese Salad). For this, prickly frisee is lightly dressed in a sweet-tart hazelnut, maple vinaigrette. Slices of grilled peach are draped across the greens, which are topped with a round of warm fried brie with a crunchy breading. Two salty curls of serrano ham are tipped alongside, and toasty almond slivers are scattered about. The salad is beautiful composition of color, texture, temperature, and taste. |
|
|
Duck Confit Taquitos are the closest thing to “finger food” you’ll find at Brick Bistro. A play on Asian spring rolls, the wrap is hot and crisp and the moist, savory filling is very Western. A trio of two-bite sized pieces are served on a cilantro creme fraiche with sliced cherry tomato and a dollop of lime and avocado puree that mimics the look of wasabi next to spring rolls but is cooling and refreshing! |
 |
Another very appealing twist is the Buffalo Style Pork Belly. The square of pork belly is perfectly cooked—topped with a crackly thin layer of skin and underneath rich fatty layers alternating with tasty layers of meat. Explosive flavor is added with spicy drizzles of Thai chili infused hot sauce, which also helps cut the richness, as does the cooling celeraic puree. Generous chunks of Great Hill blue cheese complete the “Buffalo Style.” This is best eaten with a little of each element in every forkful. |
 |
Our table favorite among the appetizers (and recommended by Sturgis) is the Coriander Crusted Scallops. For this, Chef Sigeti perfectly sautees a pair of large, plump sea scallops—beauiful brown crust top and bottom, their middles just warm—and serves them on a rich and buttery combination of fresh sweet corn, fennel, and cream. The sweet corn highlights the sweetness of the fresh scallops. This is a dish of perfect restraint, full of flavor. |
 |
The entree we tried that is closest to traditional bistro fare is the Bone-In Veal Chop, though we hear that the Steak Frites is also a classic preparation. We could tell from the moment it was brought to table that there must be a grill master in the Brick Bistro kitchen—one taste confirmed it. The thick veal chop was cooked perfectly to order, the edges a tasty char and the meat inside moist and succulent medium rare. Just enough luxurious bordelaise sauce is spooned overtop. Served alongside this robust veal is a delicate herb and pecorino spaetzle and thin spears of grilled asparagus. |
|
|
Offered steakhouse style, are four side dishes: Grilled Asparagus with lemongrass vinaigrette and sea salt, Sauteed Spinch with garlic chips and pancetta, Cauliflower au Gratin with gruyere and herbs, and House Cut Frites with rosemary and sea salt. We sampled the spinach and the cauliflower (which is made with the purple variety), and found both to be as well thought out and perfectly cooked as the rest of the meal.
|
 |
We continued with Brick Bistro’s Surf & Turf, which features sumptuous butter poached lobster (half a tail and a claw), and beer braised short rib that is meltingly tender. Grilled asparagus and fingerling potatoes roasted to a tasty crispness are served alongside, and the crowning touch is a “duet of sauces,” bordelaise and saffron beurre blanc, which play together deliciously. |
|
|
We usually avoid mixed seafood dishes, but Chef Sigeti again shows his talent with the Pappardelle fra Diavolo by presenting a dish in which shrimp, squid, lobster, mussels and clams are all cooked just as they should be, retaining their own flavors while adding to the whole. Pasta has top billing in the name, but is really just a tender backdrop to the seafood and the spicy tomato broth that ties it all together. |
|
Our favorite seafood entree is another Sturgis recommended: the Striped Bass. Fresh from the docks, the thick cut of bass is cooked over high heat so that the delightfully seasoned skin becomes deliciously crisp and brittle. The bass itself is moist and clean tasting. It’s served on a bed of cilantro rice surrounded by a cool, juicy papaya and mango salsa. Tracings of a curried lime and coconut reduction add a final brilliant burst of flavor. This is a true taste of island summer! |
|
Sturgis, in collaboration with Alanna Walsh (daughter of Chick & Mary Walsh), has designed a very appealing international list. Their goal is to combine classics like Duckhorn Merlot and Patz & Hall Chardonnay with small lot, unique wines such as Hirsch Vineyards Chardonnay & Donelan “Cuvee Moriah” Syrah. New offerings are frequently added. Currently featured are 35 whites, 60 reds, 10 sparkling, and 5 rosés. The selection runs the full spectrum, from light and crisp low in alcohol to big and bold with prices ranging from $25-$200 |
 |
Desserts at Brick Bistro are created by Pastry Chef Lili Tran. Her Trio of Sorbets are the essence of flavor, ... |
|
|
...and her Chocolate Mousse has the perfect combination of lightness and flavor. |
 |
But the dessert we most highly and unreservedly recommend is the Kiffir Lime Panna Cotta—even its aroma is irresistible. This is the consummate summer dessert: light yet intense, its tart lime flavor accented by a fresh kiwi slice and sweet strawberry served alongside. |
Sturgis is planning to remain open at least until New Years, with special dinners during the fall, and he promised to be open Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, and Christmas Day. We suggest you make your reservations early: Brick Bistro is sure to become an island favorite.
Brick Bistro
29 Broad Street • 508-325-5151 • www.brickbistro.com
Breakfast served from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily
Lunch also served from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily
Dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m.
Entrees range from $22 to $45
Lounge/Bar Menu served from 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Reservations suggested for first seating and for parties of 6 or more
Full Bar • Indoor & Outdoor Dining • Dress: Smart Casual
