American Seasons - There’s Always Something New
The enthusiasm of Chef Michael LaScola and Orla Murphy-LaScola never flags, and it’s their effervescence and energy that keeps American Seasons vibrant year-after-year.. “After the season, we take two to three weeks off and then we’re thinking right away of what to do next season...we never stop!” Nor do they want to!
“Times have changed,” Chef Michael LaScola continued...”and I’ve grown a lot—found my style and progressed. We’re always thinking of what to do next, and every year we bring in something new. This year we’re working with the Ruthie B to bring in seafood fresh off their boat...we’re using Nantucket mushrooms, local eggs...89 to 90 percent [of our ingredients] comes from Nantucket in-season. It’s fun and so cool to use the small producers!”
With their impressive talents and experience, this husband-and-wife team make the hard work all seem effortless. Evenings spent at American Seasons are notable for impeccable service, for expertly mixed cocktails and a stunning selection of hard-to-find wines, and for food that combines unusual ingredients with innovative techniques to create meals that earn them kudos from critics, high praise from their guests, awards from their peers. Many who dine with the LaScolas become patrons for life.
American Seasons is considered by most to be Fine Dining, but Chef LaScola describes his eatery as “a neighborhood restaurant...a fun, small place on Nantucket” where “we do things no one else out here is doing.” There’s no challenging that, with menus that include Tobacco Rubbed Breast of Duck, Foie Gras Doughnut with Rhubarb Jam, Goat Cheese Fondue, Crispy Fresh Sardines, and a Charcuterie Plate with seven to nine savory tidbits, each smoked, pickled, brined, cured, dried, and otherwise prepared completely in-house and served only when chef deems ready. The wine list, too, illustrates that Orla Murphy-LaScola with new cellar master Ieva Aldin are doing “things no one else out here is doing.” There are small production bottles available nowhere else in this region and a section of highly prized wines aptly titled Sine Qua Non. Reservations are being accepted now for their Wine Dinner on May 20 featuring the exclusive Blackbird Vineyards.
Chef LaScola’s spring menu for American Seasons includes many new dishes destined to become patron favorites. There’s even a new bread being introduced: pretzel bread by Pastry Chef Natasha Misanko.
| click on images for larger view |
 |
Day Boat Scallops are always a good choice at American Seasons, and this spring LaScola is preparing them in a fun play on breakfast, complete with corned beef cheek hash and a delicate quail egg perfectly sunny-side up. The interplay of flavors and textures make this a dish we’d happily devour to start our day. (See photo on the cover.) Suggested pairing: Ken Wright Canary Pinot Noir.
|
|
|
One of the chef’s favorites is the Octopus Terrine appetizer. For this, in a delicious reversal of expectation, what is often served hot is chilled; what is typically chilled is served hot. The meaty poached octopus is surrounded by chickpea salsa and a pool of harrisa emulsion to add smoky spice. The crowning touch are slices of avocado, dusted with cornmeal and fried till crisp. This is a dish of delightful surprise, and is best when a bit of each element is in every mouthful. Suggested pairing: Veuve Cliquot Rose Brut. |
 |
A novel take on a popular pub treat can be enjoyed in Chef LaScola’s “Buffalo” Pig Tails. This dish has all the elements of Buffalo Wings: the spice, the crunch, the blue cheese, and the celery. But in place of chicken is tender meat from the tail of a pig, removed from the bone, shaped and dipped in a cornmeal coating, then fried. The “buffalo” sauce has more flavor than heat (though it is moderately spicy), and the cool, crisp celery sticks are pickled. Suggested pairing: Gundlach Bundschu Gwertztraminer. |
 |
Dinner at American Seasons is not complete with some variation of foie gras! Over the years, it’s been Fois Gras Creme Brulee, Potted Foie Gras, Foie Gras Doughnuts...this year it’s Pork & Foie Gras Meatballs. Four delectable balls, meltingly good from the foie with substance from the pork (so they don’t actually melt away), are lined up on creamy cheese grits and topped with a foie sauce. Orange slices of tart kumquat cuts the richness and adds bright pops of flavor. Suggested pairing: Donelon Family Cuvee Moriah. |
|
|
The American Seasons Charcuterie Platter is another “must have.” Ideal for sharing (it’s really much too large for one), every item is fully prepared by Chef LaScola with his Chef de Cuisine Derek Ronspies and Sous Chef Andy Howard: venison pastrami, coppa (cooked and uncooked), thinly shaved curls of lardo, blood sausage, country paté, fresh ham, and more...even the apricot mustard and cornichons are made in-house! With this our server Gail also presented a serving of Pig Ear Fries. Yes, you read that correctly. Remember, as Chef LaScola likes to say: “We’re all about the pig.” Our first bites were tentative, then we dove in...these thin and crunchy strips doused with chili and lime are addictive! |
 |
This favored meat is showcased again in the Suckling Pig entree. And we were again surprised when it was brought to our table as a cube. We could hear the smile in his voice when we quizzed Chef LaScola, who explained his deconstruction-reconstruction approach: “We take an entire 85-pound pig, bone it, brine it for a couple of days, and cook it in duck fat (confit style) for eight hours. Then we lay out the very crisp skin and spread the meat over it...it took a couple of tries to perfect it.” Well, perfect it he did, because though it may not look like a suckling pig, this entree has all the succulent flavor of one, with the plus of sinfully delicious crispy skin. A dollop of apricot mustard adorns the top, and tucked underneath is a creamy buttermilk potato fondant. Suggested pairing: Owen Roe Rosa Mystica Cabernet Franc. |
|
|
LaScola takes steakhouse fare to a new level with his Grilled Aged Wolfe’s Neck Farm Rib Eye. Generously sized and impressively tender, the steak is cooked to a perfect temperature, with just enough singe to crisp the bit of luscious fat along the edge. A spoonful of whipped bone marrow garnishes and served alongside and overtop are “tater tots” (reminiscent of the frozen kind only in their shape and the fact they contain potato), house-smoked mushrooms, thin spears of asparagus, baby carrot, radish slices, and shavings of black truffle. Need I say more? We’ll never again be fully satisfied by a simple steak on the grill. Suggested pairing: T VIne Grenache. |
 |
Both the fish entrees on the spring menu are stunning. Light and summery, the very fresh Virginia Fluke is served over black squid ink cavatelli with a spicy chorizo and grilled squid vinaigrette. Suggested pairing: Domaine Serene Couer Blanc (a lovely White Pinot Noir). |
 |
But our favorite of the two is the gorgeous Wild King Salmon, with it’s sweet and smoky flavors. The salmon is painted with a glaze of honey and chili and served over fried green tomatoes and surrounded by a smoky crayfish and green onion butter. Suggested pairing: Robert Sinskey Pinot Blanc. |
|
|
If you used up the room you saved for dessert with the Charcuterie Platter that is so hard to resist, you can finish your evening at American Seasons with a Rosa Rugosa Cocktail or a glass of Heintz Port.
If, however, you can find a bit of room, then Pastry Chef Natasha Misanko’s Buttermilk and Lemon Pound Cake with it’s bruleed top and moist crumb is an excellent choice. |
 |
The Warm Chocolate Malt Cake . . . |
 |
. . . and the Peanut Butter & Jelly Bread Pudding are sweeter options. |
 |
And if you just want something to share then it’s the Cookie Platter you should choose. |
 American Seasons
www.AmericanSeasons.com • 80 Centre Street
508-228-7111
reservations suggested
casually elegant, comfortably relaxed
Dinner Menu and Bar Menu served from 5:30 p.m.
entree prices range from $26.50 to $35.50
Small plates menu selections $7 each for Spring
All-Americas wine list and full bar
Amex, Visa, MasterCard accepted • no children’s menu
Outdoor Lounge • open April – December
|
|
