56 Union - Seriously Delicious
Veronica, dressed to kill, is a familiar face at this restaurant, and on any given day, you may encounter “the Most Interesting Man in the World,” Marilyn Monroe, or even Elvis. Whimsical room accents are designed to make you smile, and there’s a bar placemat that may make you blush.
They may not take themselves seriously at Fifty-Six Union, but they take fine dining very seriously.
Since they opened Fifty-Six Union in 2000, Peter and Wendy Jannelle have earned rave reviews locally and regionally. New York Times travel site praises the service and the food, and we heartily agree! For fine dining and attentive service without the haughtiness, there is no better place on Nantucket.
In addition to a well-trained staff and front-of-the-house expertise, Wendy Jannelle also creates the wine list, which evolves through the season. The relaxed ambiance of the restaurant is reflected in wine list headings that include “Bubbles,” “Unique Reds,” and “Some Young Punks.” She constantly strives to make it fun, user-friendly, and unusual and often has novel selections. “I want people to be able to have two bottles and not feel like they’ve just made a mortgage payment.”
Chef Peter Jannelle’s artistry in the kitchen is what has earned Fifty-Six so many loyal patrons. His clear understanding of the interplay of taste and texture, counterpoint, and the complexities of flavors makes his preparations disarmingly good. Great thoughfulness goes into everything served out of Chef Jannelle’s kitchen. Every entree is confidently matched with accompaniments that highlight the flavors and textures of the main ingredient. Every sauce is skillfully prepared to enhance rather than to hide, and often ends up the star of the show.
Both of Chef Peter and Wendy’s sons, Andrew and Blair, are in the family business this season with the same enthusiasm as their parents. Andrew is by Peter’s side in the kitchen, and Blair in the front of the house. A true family affair in which all four are making sure their guests are well-cared for.
There are four options for dining at Fifty-Six: the front Bistro Bar Room is a favorite and can get lively...The Celebrity Room is quieter and the perfect spot for romantic dining...and the outdoor patio is ideal during the warm summer months. The patio is sheltered in case the weather turns unpredictable. And, if you can reserve it, there’s Table 56—a very special canopied table for up to 12 in their lush garden, a sensational setting for a private gathering.
New this summer is Après la Plage at Fifty-Six, a relaxing way to pass the afternoon. Dress is casual, and seating is in the garden, where you can chat and sip or play ring toss with the kids. The patio bar serves Harpoon on tap (they have two styles) or Allie can create for you an “Effen Delicious,” Pyrat Rum Afternoon Delight, or a “Summer Special” cocktail. Alfresco snacks include Clam Chowder, Oysters & Clams on the half-shell, Shrimp Cocktail, Angus Beef Slider, Lobster Salad Roll, and Seared Rare Tuna.
Several seasonal favorites are back on the summer dinner menu, which starts at 5:30 pm nightly. There’s the garlicky and tender morsels of the Escargot Bourguignonne, Chef Jannelle’s superb Crab Cake with Lobster Cream, and the refreshing Caprese Salad that only gets better as the local tomatoes are harvested.
The Caprese Salad is one of three selections that can be ordered in small portion or large (a large Caprese and Chef Jannelle’s chowder make a terrific light summer meal). Seared Rare Tuna is another, showcasing the very fresh fish, enlivened with just enough 7-spice powder, and served with a nuoc cham dipping sauce and wasabi aioli. Javanese Spicy Fried Rice, is the third. A signature dish that’s been on the Fifty-Six menu that is absolutely adored, the dish has the perfect balance of flavor and fire. You can taste the shrimp, the chicken, and the mushrooms, and the julienne pea pods, carrot, and bok choy are deliciously tender-crisp. Squeeze the grilled lime overtop for an added brightness. This dish has a definite after-glow, but it’s not so spicy that you cannot taste the next course.
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We couldn’t stop eating the Fried Calamari appetizer. Supple instead of rubbery, the rings and tentacles are enrobed in a light batter that comes out golden brown and crunchy. Tossed into the tangle are slices of pepperoncini that add a pleasant pucker and a spark of heat. Sweet and sour dipping sauce is the final touch. We like this best taken altogether: calamari, pepperoncini, and dipping sauce. |
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We’re convinced that Chef Jannelle makes the best Clam Chowder on Nantucket, though we did discuss whether it’s clam chowder with corn or corn chowder with clams. Either way, it’s superb! It’s the perfect consistency (not gluey like so many), the clams are tender, and the roasted corn adds sweet pops of flavor. If you’re visiting the island and want to try Clam Chowder, this is the place to come (they also serve their chowder from 2 to 6 pm at Après la Plage). |
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Quality is everything when you’re serving fresh seafood, and for the Oysters on the Half Shell at Fifty-Six to be any fresher they’d still be in the ocean off Prince Edward Island. Sparklingly fresh, clean, and succulent, they’re a treat on their own, but the Green Apple and Mango Mignonette that is served alongside adds just the right tingle. |
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We must confess that one in our party this week is a scallop snob. He’ll usually refuse any but fresh Nantucket Bays. But one taste of Chef Jannelle’s Seared Sea Scallop special, and he went back for more. Flawlessly pan-seared for caramelized top and bottom and translucent centers, the scallops were just as they should be. They were accompanied by a warm savory salad of lentils that added a rich, earthy flavor. What really lit up the dish was the saffron and vanilla beurre blanc. It doesn’t take much of either of those ingredients to make a point, and this chef’s light hand is perfect. |
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The Pan-Seared Fluke is another showstopper! The fish is coated with pecan flour dust that gives it a robust flavor and lovely crust. For this dish, Chef Jannelle marries the ocean with the garden, topping the fish with crisp haricots vert and surrounding it with a mix of asparagus, kernels of corn, diced tomato and red onion. Tucked underneath is forbidden black rice, which adds a mildly nutty taste. A lemon thyme beurre blanc is simple and simply delicious with the fluke. |
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Fifty-Six serves a fabulous Grilled Sirloin, but at Chef Jannelle’s suggestion, this trip we decided to try the Grilled Veal Rib Chop. Perfectly cooked, perfectly sauced, and perfectly presented, this veal is sensational! Don’t be too shy to pick up the bone for every last shred of meat. One of the simpler presentations, a luxurious wild mushroom demi glaze is poured over the chop. Haricots vert lean against one side of the veal, and light, tender spaetzle is tucked under the other. The menu promised potato gratin, but we’re told that through the season the chef sometimes improves a dish, and the spaetzle seems a better choice for summer. |
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Our table favorite is the Grilled Breast of Duck...more specifically the Grilled Breast of Duck with the seductive ginger and fig demi. The duck is beautifully grilled, the skin crisp and the meat underneath moist and pink. The sauce is so good that we dragged everything on the plate through it: the duck, the broccolini, and the wild rice with cranberries and almonds. |
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It’s worth saving room for desserts at Fifty-Six Union. Their sundaes—Butterscotch Brownie and Toffee—are just the ticket for reawakening the joy in life. The Fifty-Six Float, espresso poured over a scoop of vanilla ice cream, is another favorite. If the only dessert for you is chocolate, then the Chocolate Lava Cake is sure to please. |
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But this time of year, we love Chef Jannelle’s Shortcake—for this visit, the flaky orange-scented biscuits were topped with loads of fresh, juicy strawberries, a bit of simple syrup, and a dollop of whipped cream. |
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We discovered a new dessert this trip to Fifty-Six Union, Bartender Allie’s phenomenal Pistachio Martini. A gorgeous green color, this cocktail is mixed from an unlikely combination of spirits and tastes like melted pistachio ice cream, spiked. We may have a new favorite! |
For a bit of fun and a seriously delicious meal, come to Fifty-Six Union.
Fifty-Six Union
www.fiftysixunion.com
Open year-round at 56 Union Street • 508-228-6135
Après la Plage in-season daily from 2-6 pm, with snacks from $4.75
Bar opens at 5 pm; Dinner served nightly from 5:30 pm
Entree price range is $18 to $46 (most between $26 - $34)
indoor and outdoor dining; full bar
available for private celebrations
major credit cards accepted • plenty of parking
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