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Volume 40 Issue 1 • April 22 - May 5, 2010 now in our 40th season
In This Issue

Oran Mor - Above the Rest

Front of Oran MorDeciding where to eat on Nantucket can be daunting:  so many restaurants, so little time.  So, you narrow the field.  The food must be fabulous, the service attentive, and the atmosphere distinct yet comfortable.

Oran Mor scores high on every point!

Chef owner Christopher Freeman and his wife Heather have created an eatery that offers culinary delights with fine wine pairings at prices that won’t leave you shellshocked.  In their second-floor oasis, they combine warm colors, art, and antique accents, to provide an inviting ambiance of upscale chic that is equally as appropriate for special occasions as is it for an evening out with friends.

  
Service is always flawless at Oran Mor, but if you have a choice ask for Olivier.  He is professional, has a thorough knowledge of the menu and the wine list, and will undoubtedly add a bit of spice to a well-seasoned meal.

Chef Freeman’s cuisine reflects classic training, depth of experience, and an impressive talent for innovative combinations that are remarkably good. His respect for and insistence upon the freshest ingredients is also evident in his menus.  Everything here, from the breads that begin a meal to the desserts that end it, is made in-house.  Dishes are seasonally-driven with sophisticated flair, so the menu is frequently modified. Portions are perfectly-sized, with sauces and accompaniments designed to enhance rather than overpower.


Oran Mor Bar.

If you just want to sip and sample, then perch on one of the tall chairs around their beautifully etched bar and choose from the more than half a dozen selections on Oran Mor’s Small Plates menu.  Their wine list has been expanded again this season “a little everywhere,” with more Italian and Spanish bottles, and a great selection of cabernets and other varietals.  Look for more rosés as summer comes along.

Dining
One of Oran Mor's dining rooms.

At Oran Mor, Wednesday evenings through spring are Roasted Suckling Pig and Single Barrel Bourbon Flight Night.  This tempting mid-week special features a different selection of rare bourbons (once they’re out, they’re out).  Last week the flight included Pappy Van Winkle 15 yr., W.L. Weller 12. yr., Eagle Rare, and the always impressive Blanton’s.

click on images for larger view
Foie

Foie is a perennial Oran Mor favorite and always excellent, no matter how Chef Freedman prepares and presents it.  He knows to have a light hand with this delicacy, but he’s bold and experienced enough not to be shy.  It’s a   Foie Gras Duo on the current menu, showcasing it au torchon and seared.  Both are so good we got weak in the knees!  Tea-sized slices of Portuguese bread, buttery and toasted, are offered along with a few drops of port wine gastrique and a dollop of rhubarb-pepper jam.

Pork Belly

Nearly as indulgent as the foie is the Crispy Pork Belly appetizer.  Meltingly tender chunks glistening with poblano barbecue sauce are nestled in a gentle bed of cheddar grits.  A cool, crisp slaw of fennel and red onion provides a perfect counterpoint in temperature, texture, and taste.

Ravioli

Braised Short Rib Ravioli is another fine way to begin.  This colorful dish is a kaleidoscope of textures and flavors:  plump and tender pasta filled with soft and savory pulled short rib, soft mushrooms, firm fava beans, sweet carrot, crisp asparagus, and fresh peas that pop deliciously in your mouth.  All are in a pool of rich mushroom jus and topped with a dusting of freshly shaved parmesan.

Octopus

The Red Wine Braised Octopus piqued our curiosity and, after tasting it, became one of the table favorites.  Surprisingly tender and slightly smoky in flavor, the mollusks are finished on the grill after being braised.  The palm-sized octopi are arranged atop a mix of hearty borlotti and fava beans, crisp bits of pancetta, and tender celery.  A generous drizzle of chimichurri brightens the flavors of this unusual and very good appetizer. 

Chicken

We don’t usually order chicken in a restaurant: we can cook that at home.  But we don’t know any home cooks who have the time or the technique to bone the thighs, roll them neatly into the breast, coat the ballotine in fresh herbs, then cook it sous vide as Chef Freeman does with his Herb Roasted Chicken Ballotine.  This entree should not be under-estimated—the clean, bold flavor of this moist chicken will become the standard by which you measure all chicken.  Chef Freeman prepares all of his entrees as complete plates: the accompaniments carefully thought out so that the many flavors work in harmony.  Tucked under the Chicken Ballotine are porcini mushroom and chevre spaetzle, sliced baby artichokes, and wilted spinach.  We cleaned the plate.

Lamb

Also stunningly good is the Colorado Lamb Loin and Sausage pairing.    The loin is cooked medium rare, with delicate flavor and fine grain, and the slices are fanned out over a robust mix of flagolet beans, roasted red pepper, and olive tapenade that perfectly complements the lamb.  Set on top is a house-made lamb sausage, succulent and slightly gamey, that has a touch of smoke from the grill. 

Scallops

One of our absolute favorites is Chef Freeman’s Sauteed Sea Scallops.  We’ve learned to expect perfection from this chef when it comes to scallops.  On this spring menu, these sweet seaside treats are beautifully seared and placed around a twirl of house-made pappardelle.  Scattered over the pasta are fresh morel mushrooms, slightly caramelized to make them sweet and juicy, garden peas, wild leek pesto, toasted sunflower seeds, and just enough preserved lemon to add a vibrant touch. 

Salmon

We’ve not tasted better salmon than in the Pan Roasted Wild King Salmon served at Oran Mor!  Sparkling fresh and buttery smooth, the salmon is roasted till the edges are deep golden and the center is moist and rare yet flakes well.  The salmon is matched with quinoa drenched in a cucumber and edamame vinaigrette that is studded with diced carrot, edamame, a touch of citrus, and mustard greens.  This colorful entree is fresh as a summer breeze.

Souffle

It’s been some time since we were tempted by a dessert souffle.  During our recent visit to Oran Mor, we’re happy to report that we gave in to the temptation.  The Raspberry Souffle with raspberry coulis has all the ripe flavor with none of the pesky seeds.

Lemon Tart

Tied with the souffle for favorite is the Meyer Lemon Cream Tart.  The creamy lemon filling is in perfect sweet-tart balance and sits in a supremely flaky fluted crust.  Strawberries macerated in tarragon are served overtop and alongside.  

Cake

The Rhubarb Almond Cake is moist, dense, and delicious, and even better with a shimmering glass of Dolceoro Moscato d’Asti. 

 

pot a creme

We really didn’t need the chocolate chunk cookie that came with the satiny-rich Chocolate Pot de Creme, but we happily ate it anyway while sipping the L’Or de Bastor Sauternes.

Climb the copper stairs at 2 South Beach Street to an evening that will be above the rest in more ways than one! 

EntranceOran Mor

www.OranMorBistro.com
2 South Beach Street  •  Reservations Suggested: 508-228-8655
Dinner served from 6 pm
Entree prices range from $26 to $32
Tasting Menu available for entire table upon request
Full Bar with Small Plates Menu
Major Credit Cards Accepted  • 
Proper Island Attire
Gift Certificates available  • 
Call about private dining & parties

 

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