In This Issue

DeMarco Restaurant:
Food from the Heart

Restaurants evolve like people; they are made of dreams, ambitions, goals, and flaws. There are good restaurants and good businesses; to have both takes hard work and a little luck. The key to all human enterprises is inspiration, and it should show up in every aspect of the business. The result is truly a fine dining experience. ... The nights spent dining with friends at my table in Nantucket, looking out onto the lantern lit cobblestones of India Street, are woven into a tapestry of treasured memories and images...

—Don DeMarco - from his cookbook Nantucket Taste Memories

For nearly three decades, the unassuming white structure at 9 India Street has been the site of quiet romantic evenings, treasured family gatherings, and fun encounters with friends.  It has been a place where memories are made and reminiscence savored; a place where great food and wine make the evening extra special.  It is the site of DeMarco Restaurant.

Indicated only by a small black sign, a menu box, and a brass plaque on the door, you might stroll past DeMarco’s.   That is, unless you’ve dined there before:  for his patrons, dining at Don DeMarco’s restaurant is often the sole reason to venture into town on a busy summer evening.

The restaurant is more spacious than it appears from the street.  A 19th century home restored to accentuate its architectural details, the dining rooms extend through the first floor and occupy the entire second level.  Rustic wood beam ceilings, wide plank floors, exposed brick walls, fireplace, and crisp white linen give the dining rooms an upscale yet cozy feel.  The 10-seat bar  is set slightly apart, and is known for its summer cocktails and espresso martini.  Distinctive accents, such as copper propeller fans, sculpture, and colorful paintings add to the ambiance and reveal a bit about the owner, whose bright cheer, enthusiasm, and boundless energy add to the fun of an evening at DeMarco’s.   “I’ve known three generations...we’ve served the parents, their children, and now their grandchildren...We have a waitress working with us this summer whose parents met at the restaurant...It’s all about the people,” said Don.

Don Demarco opened his Nantucket restaurant 29 years ago, after renovating 9 India and meeting a Renaissance literature professor turned chef:  “he had the right combination of an intellectual approach to fine foods and expertise with dining and cuisine of Northern Italy.”

Years later, DeMarco’s meeting with Ben Harris, his executive chef for the past six years, was similarly serendipitous.  “I came to Nantucket for a month with a friend, just to relax,” Harris explained, “I was wandering around, and I met Don.  We started working together, and it’s been a good relationship.”

Harris brings a West Coast flair to DeMarco’s classic Northern Italian cuisine, adding some lighter influences, and he changes the offerings with the seasons.  Harris designs nightly specials around whatever is freshest:  “I think of specials as a way to showcase an exceptional ingredient in a fun way.  Specials here at DeMarco’s really ARE something special.”

Everything served at DeMarco, from the warm crusty bread presented at the start to the final dessert course is house made.  Fresh, local ingredients are emphasized in dishes creatively prepared, artistically presented, and absolutely delicious down to every vegetable and accompaniment.  The service is smooth and gracious.

The wine list at DeMarco deserves mention.  Personally selected to complement the Northern Italian cuisine, it includes Italian and domestic wines that are all priced to be approachable, from a $38 Barbera d’Asti Prunotto to a delightful Brunello Di Montalcino Poggio Antico at $158, with some half bottles and a fine selection of wines by the glass.

	Appetizers at DeMarco are deliciously fresh and different.  We tried a refreshing  Endive and Pear Salad that is a sophisticated combination of tastes and textures:  crunchy red and white endive, firm and juicy slices of pear, toasty walnuts, and creamy chunks of gorgonzola, all tied togther in a champagne vinaigrette that adds a nice sparkle to the salad.
	Another very good way to begin is the Bruschetta.  For this, Harris grills some of their freshly baked focaccia and spreads overtop it a brightly flavored combination of ricotta, fresh herbs, and lemon zest.  The bruschetta is served over a tangle of thinly sliced blanced asparagus tossed with pine nuts and olive oil.  A single, tiny quail egg, soft boiled, is the final crowning touch.
	The Fried Green and Ugly Tomatoes has  been a DeMarco patron favorite for years, and it quickly became our favorite appetizer as well.  It’s a stunning contrast of crunchy and juicy, sweet and tangy.  Layers of ripe red tomato, thickly sliced, and breaded green tomatoes, fried and still warm, are alternated with fresh mozzarella lusciously softened from the warmth.  Shredded basil leaves and drizzles of basil oil and aged balsamic add bright accents of color and flavor.  This dish will only get better as the local tomato harvest ripens in the summer sunshine.
	After hearing Harris speak of his specials, we had to try one:  an appetizer of Local Oyster Mushrooms.  Three types went into the preparation—golden, baby, and regular—sauteed with garlic, shallots, herbs, and pancetta. He anointed the sauté with just enough white truffle oil to impart that alluring aroma and flavor and topped it with a poached egg whose yolk added a richness to this light and earthy mixture. This was nothing short of inspired: as promised, a very special Special.
All the pastas served at DeMarco can be ordered in appetizer or in entree portions.  In just four dishes, Harris manages to demonstrate a wide range of flavors and preparations.  The Linguine is served with fresh Nantucket littlenecks in a light sauce of white wine, garlic, and clam juice; the Cappellini with shrimp, tomatoes, anchovies and white wine with balsamic vinaigrette.  Our favorites are the Ravioli and the Boscaiola.
	Stuffed with a puree of spring peas, bits of trumpet mushroom, shallots, and parmigiano cheese, the handmade Ravioli is tender and flavorful, and the filling is at once light and substantial.  This is served in a intense nage sauce that has an elusive yet compelling flavor, with hints of fennel and a whisper of sweetness.  Fried prosciutto served on top adds a constrasting crunch and pleasant saltiness to the dish.
	Boscaiola, as it boasts on the menu, is “legendary” at DeMarco.  You mustn’t leave without trying this entree of “badly cut” fresh pasta.  Tucked into the gentle folds of pasta are chunks of portabella, shiitake, and cremini mushrooms, tomatoes, sage, and prosciutto, all in a tomato cream sauce.  Aged imported parmesan is draped over the top, melting slightly over the warm pasta.  When we read the description we expected a heavy dish; when we tasted it, we couldn’t believe how light it is with no loss of flavor.  Order it in full portion or in appetizer size, but order it!  This legend is true.
	Beef lovers have two stellar choices at DeMarco.  Harris prepares Short Ribs braised in cherries and red burgundy, and counts this as one of his favorites.  We adored the Grass Fed Beef Tenderloin, which is served simply and is simply delicious.  The beef is impossibly tender, cooked perfectly to order, and dressed only in a red wine reduction.  The mashed potatoes served alongside are satiny-smooth, and the rustic mix of roasted vegetables is the ideal accompaniment.
	We were also very impressed by the Fresh Local Codfish.  This entree adorns this local island fish with firm and salty prosciutto and presents it over roasted potatoes on a bed of spring peas pureed with mint.  Full of bright colors and clean fresh flavors, we’ve never had cod like this before and most chefs would be hard pressed to match it.
	If you find you’ve eaten too well (a real risk here, where three courses could preceed dessert), then order the Sorbet for your final course.  Prepared by pastry chef Claudia Morris, the varieties change frequently.  We were very impressed by the intensity of flavor in the raspberry, blackberry, and mint-strawberry that we enjoyed.
	The Tahitian Vanilla Panna Cotta is another light choice that will leave you well pleased.  A crisp and fruity peach-mint salad came tucked alongside the panna cotta, perfectly offsetting the texture.
	For a more indulgent finish, try the exceptional classic Tiramisu...
	...or the outstanding Chocolate Molten Cake.  One of DeMarco’s Espresso Martinis would be the ideal accompaniment to either one.