This inimitable chef, with his classic French training and passion for food, has returned to Nantucket after a season’s hiatus to bring 29 Fair back into the fold of top island eateries.
There is no other restaurant on Nantucket that offers the sought-after combination of past and present—authentic historical ambiance and contemporary culinary creations—that can be enjoyed at 29 Fair.
Located just two tree-lined blocks off of Main Street, this restaurant has a long and storied history. It was originally two homes: one built in 1709 by Captain George Bunker and the other in 1711 by his brother. Over the centuries, the buildings were joined and used as an antique shop, as an inn, and as a tea room. In the 299 years since it was built, 29 Fair has been owned by just four families and each took pains to preserve the original structure.
In all three dining rooms, the walls are wood paneled, floors are the old pine “kings board,” and the original brick fireplaces (one a huge cook fireplace complete with Dutch oven) are still a part of the authentic ambiance. Interesting antiques decorate each room. Tables are simply and elegantly appointed with candles, crisp white linens, and china. Indirect lighting and soft music complete the effect.
Modern comforts are not ignored: tables are spaced so that the cozy rooms do not feel crowded, and the dining rooms are now air-conditioned, although it will be several weeks before that amenity is needed on Nantucket.
Chef Charles with his attentive and well-turned-out waitstaff make sure their patrons are comfortable and happy from the first warm welcome to the last sip of coffee or port. This is one reason why 29 Fair is the choice of many for anniversaries, birthdays, intimate evenings, and gatherings of good friends.
The other reason is the food.
With Chef Charles back at the helm, 29 Fair has consistently offered some of the finest fare to be had on Nantucket. We expect this season to be no different. His passion is food and his menu is best described as New England bistro food with a French accent. Chef Salliou’s style emphasizes the pure, honest flavors of his ingredients—no heavy sauces or unnecessary flourishes. His dishes are simple and approachable and very good.
If you love breakfast, you simply must enjoy it at 29 Fair, where it is served only on Sundays, but nearly all day until 3 p.m. Their extensive eye-opening menu includes breakfast standards such as eggs and sausage or ham or bacon (The Grand Treat), omelets, steak-and-eggs, Belgian waffles, and Eggs Benedict in three styles: classic, with smoked salmon, or with lobster medallions.
For a sweet start to the day, there’s classic French toast, deep chocolate French Toast, maple-flavored pancakes, and ricotta blintzes with fruit compote. You can start light, with a fruit platter, a smoked salmon platter, granola and berries or The Latin Quarter (pastries with coffee and juice). And for an old-fashioned hearty island breakfast, try the New Englander: salt cod cakes topped with poached eggs.
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Dinner begins at 6 p.m., with a basket of warm and crusty French bread, which is the perfect accompaniment to Chef Charles’ Wild Mushroom Soup. Made from a vegetable broth, yet rich and hearty in flavor, this soup has no cream and is chock full of chunks of wild mushrooms—portobello, morel, shiitake—the flavors just shine through. This is a soup that will warm your soul on a cool May evening.
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If you order the Prince Edward Island Mussels, be sure to dig down below the bright orange mussels half-hidden in their blue-black shells to savor them dressed in the coconut curry broth. Sweet rather than hot, the curry sauce manges to be both light and flavorful, and it’s good enough to finish off by the spoonful.
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The Frisee Lettuce & Duck Confit Salad deserves high praise. One of our favorites by Chef Charles, the delicate frisee is anointed with just enough sherry vinaigrette to add flavor without leaving a puddle. The generous portion of classic housemade duck confit, warmed and spread over the top of the frisee, is full of deep flavor, and the chewy figs scattered throughout add a pleasantly sweet notes. Even with all the appetizer choices, this is one we would happily repeat.
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Two of the more summery appetizers on the menu are both standouts: Roasted Portobello and Red Pepper and the Norwegian Salmon Gravlax. Like a vegetarian carpaccio, the Portobello dish presents these huge mushrooms in thin slices arranged around a colorful mix of roasted red and yellow peppers. Fruity olive oil infused with garlic and basil is drizzled overtop, and broad shavings of parmesan add a delightful sharp bite to the mellow flavors.
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House-cured in vodka and dill, the Norwegian Salmon Gravlax is a sensational change from smoked salmon. The fish is thinly sliced, but thick enough to taste, and perfectly seasoned with freshly ground pepper and sea salt. A refreshing dollop of a chilled salad of cucumber, yogurt, dill, and sour cream adds a perfect balance of crisp tang. A glass of Spring Mountain Sauvignon Blanc is the ideal pairing. |
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If you order the Roasted Lobster be warned: your table-mates will not be able to resist a stolen forkful or two. Simple and elegant, this stunning entree makes lobster the star of the show. A kataifi (shredded fillo) topping envelopes the roasted meat in a crisp golden cloud, and you’ll want to get every drop of the luxurious beurre blanc that anoints the lobster. Add to this entree the crisp Domaine Ott Rosé and you’ll get as close as you can to heaven on Nantucket.
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We would be hard-pressed to choose a favorite between the lobster entree and Chef Charles’ Grilled Salmon. Even the one in our party who usually avoids fish adored this dish. The delicate pink salmon tasted fresh and clean, its moist flesh pefectly seasoned with sea salt and painted with a pomegranate glaze that added a spectacular sweet-tart sparkle of flavor. Served alongside are tiny whole shiitake caps and buttery wilted spinach. Suggested wine pairings: Jordan Chardonnay or Toulouse Estate Pinot Noir.
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Beef Wellington has been this restaurant’s signature dish since before it was 29 Fair, and it is the one entree that is never taken off the menu. Most versions of this rich preparation call for either foie gras or mushroom duxelle: Chef Charles uses both. The sizeable fork-tender filet is dressed with duxelle and foie and baked till the pastry forms a beautiful golden-brown shell and the foie inside melts down over the beef. The Wellington is presented with simple steamed vegetables and satiny whipped potatoes in a pool of luscious red port and truffle reduction. The Downing Family Cabernet Sauvignon is the perfect match to the Wellington, a blend of Cabernet and Petite Sirah, complex and elegant.
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Dessert offerings at 29 Fair are simple and elegant and often classic French treats. The Profiteroles are perfect little puffs of choux filled with pastry cream and cradled in pools of dark chocolate sauce and creme anglaise.
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The Tart Tatin with its delicate pastry and tender sweet-tart apples makes a delicious light finish.
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Our favorite is the Chocolate Tart made from a recipe passed down to Chef Charles by his mother—just a smidgeon of flour, plenty of good chocolate, and lots of pure butter makes this indulgent dessert seem incredibly light. |
