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Volume 39 Issue 13 • July 30-Aug 5, 2009
now in our 39th season
In This Issue

The Summer House
Essence of Summertime

Few places on Nantucket can compare with Siasconset, with the serene beauty of the village center and the dramatic shoreline just yards beyond.  Not to mention the pink and red roses, the bright orange lilies, the iconic blue hydrangea, and the fragrant honeysuckle—this time of year flowers are everywhere in ‘Sconset!   More than a century ago, ‘Sconset was the vacation spot for downtown Nantucketers; it is no surprise that today it is still a favorite getaway among visitors and islanders.

‘Sconset has another attraction in addition to its stunning natural beauty—it is the location of a jewel among island restaurants.  High on the bluff overlooking the dunes and the Atlantic Ocean is The Summer House.  This restaurant distills the essence of summertime on Nantucket and serves it up elegantly and graciously to all who enter.

The Summer House porch has stunning views of the inn’s well-tended gardens and winding footpaths and of the blue ocean just beyond.  The seven tables on the porch are in high demand, so if you want to enjoy this alfresco treat, reserve well in advance.

The indoor dining room has an open, summery ambiance.  Spacious and multi-level, it has ceiling fans to keep the cool breezes flowing, and the white decor of the room is adorned with fresh flowers and colorful paintings.  

The Summer House lounge is full of well polished woods, with exquisite inlaid floor, comfortable seating, and a fireplace that adds a cheery warmth spring and fall.  Every evening in season at 7 pm, a local musician arrives to entertain at the piano in the lounge—a rare treat these days, and one that encourages guests to linger in the lounge after dinner. The Summer House is one of the island’s best spots for romance.

Locals and summer residents will recognize the friendly face and cheerful demeanor of Paul Gonnella, who is newly behind the bar in The Summer House lounge.  And with Sommelier Tracy Root lending his considerable talent and expertise to the wine list, including a new section of value offerings, the Summer House is becoming a favorite destination for oenophiles and the cocktail set.

Back again this season is award-winning Executive Chef Marc Orfaly. Well-known for his Boston restaurants Pigalle in the theatre district and Marco in the North End, Chef Orfaly has an impressive talent for preparing innovative dishes with international flavors.

His Summer House dinner menu is varied and includes chilled appetizers, soups, salads, and hot appetizers. We began by sharing a varied selection of appetizers and salads, each prepared in the unique and creative style we have come to anticipate from Chef Orfaly.

Our favorite among the chilled appetizer selection, and particularly good on these steamy mid-summer evenings, is Chef Orfaly’s Tuna Martini.  Unlike any other version we’ve tasted, this refreshing chilled starter is full of delicate, lingering flavors.  The very fresh tuna is perfectly complimented by the Asian components: crunchy seaweed salad, crunchy lotus root and fried wonton strips, spicy creme fraiche, and salty pops of bright green tobiko. 

Roasted Beet & Frisee Salad is another stellar choice for a warm night.   As beautiful in presentation as it is delicious, the frisee and greeens are tossed in a pastel pink, creamy horseradish dressing that has just enough heat to make your tongue tingle.  The beets are sweet and only slightly earthy, and toasted hazlenuts and a topping of thin, crisp fried onions add a delightful crunch.

A fun finger-food appetizer is the Crispy Fried Zucchini Flowers.  Stuffed with ricotta cheese filling, dipped in tempura batter, and fried, these crunchy treats are surprisingly light.  A sweet and sour dipping sauce is served alongside.

Among the hot appetizers, we liked the Summer House Crab Cake the best.  The only obvious ingredients in this cake other than lump and shredded crab meat, were a few bits of bell pepper.  It arrived on a lucious beurre blanc with celery foam, surrounded by plump English peas with thick pieces and smoky bacon.

 

The velvety-smooth Pureed Corn Soup is the very essence of sweet summer corn.  Deep in color as well as flavor, the soup has great body without being thick and overbearing.  The soup is served table-side over a garnish of onions and parmesan cheese, which adds a nice bite and cut the sweetness.

Each of the eight or so entrees offered each evening at The Summer House is attractively yet simply presented, here the fresh ingredients and colorful combinations of foods offer their own beauty.  Courses are well-timed, so guests are not kept waiting nor are they hurried along.

From among the tantalizing seafood entrees we sampled a superb Wild Striped Bass.  The season has recently opened on this local delicacy, and Chef Orfaly certainly knows how to prepare it to it’s best advantage.  The thick bass was perfectly moist and flaky, with a lovely crunchy, well-seasoned top.  The bass is served on two thick slices of ruby-red beet, roasted till the sugars caramelize to heighten the naturally sweet flavors.  Tucked between the beet and the fish is a warm lentil salad that deserves high praise.  Bacon, carrot, celery, and onion flavor the firm, rich du puy lentils.  A final drizzle of blood orange sauce completes the dish.  This entrée alone would draw us back to The Summer House!

Each evening the kitchen prepares a Lobster Special featuring a 1-1/2 pound local lobster—if this is Linguini with Lobster Fra Diavolo, as it was when we dined at The Summer House, then count yourself lucky.  This dish is not as fiery as some fra diavolos—the heat is more of a backdrop complementing the sweet lobster meat rather than overpowering it.  

      

Aptly named, the Crispy Half Duckling is indeed covered with a lusciously crisp skin, painted with a sweet kumqwat marmalade—the meat was moist and tender to the bone.  Whole roasted cipiollini onions are served alongside, and a timbale of wild rice, onion, and swiss chard that added a pleasantly nutty flavor and cut the sweetness of the kumquat.

Every bit as good as the sensational Striped Bass entrée is the Duet of Beef Tenderloin and Braised Beef Short Rib.  Deeply flavorful, this is a dish of sophisticated comfort food. It’s not a dish usually served in summertime, but it is not as heavy as it sounds, and it is so much better than just a steak! The handsomely cooked filet is fork-tender and beefy.  The short rib is succulent without being fatty and comes apart at a touch of the fork.  Both are served over a satiny potato puree, and an astonishingly good mushroom ragout is served over all.  This spectacular entrée is well worth an encore!

If you have room for dessert, order the homestyle Rhubarb Cobbler with vanilla ice cream melting down into the warm, crunchy topping. 

Either dish of Crantucket Ice Cream or a Vanilla Creme Bruleé  will fit the bill for simple and refreshing. 

If you prefer a savory finish, The Summer House offers a nicely composed Cheese Selection that is perfect for sharing with a bottle of Chateau D’Yquem or a fine muscat that you can finish off in the lounge while enjoying the live piano tunes.

The Summer House

www.thesummerhouse.com
open seasonally on the bluff in ’Sconset • 508-257-9976
Dinner served nightly from 6 to 10 p.m.
Entree prices range from $28 to $39
Children accommodated • Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Piano music nightly in the lounge from 7 p.m.; Bar open til 1 am
Reservations suggested for dinner; MasterCard, Visa, Amex accepted
Handicap accessible

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